Adult spiders can grow up to 22cm with females growing larger than males, but this is not always the case.
Males will always have a black and white colouration with blue/green fangs, whilst female colourations vary from black and white, to brown and bright oranges.
For a spidering you want to keep the enclosure as simple as possible;
Enclosures: A simple plastic cup turned upside down will do the trick, make sure to have the lid from the cup kept at the buttom of the enclosure as this will allow you to open it without breaking the spider web sack. The spider will most likely create its web sack at the highest pointy of the enclosure.
Decoration: Jumping Spiders don't require as much hiding spaces like most spiders do. Remember to keep it simple when you decorate as you want to be able to find your Jumping Spider, by sticking a few fake leaves on the walls of the enclosure it will provide enough stimulation for them. You may find that they will often make their webs sack in the middle of open space.
Ventilation: By poking small holes in the side of the perimeter of the enclosure or cutting out holes on the opposite sides, you will create the proper Cross-Ventilation for them. Once you have made the holes you will need to then cover them up with fine mesh.
Humidity: This can be achieved by light mist on the side of enclosure; You want to have small water drops to remain on the walls of the enclosure for the spider to drink from, make you that these droplets are not larger than a quarter of the size of your first jumping spider - surface tension of water can be deadly for your spidering. If the ventilation is correct the water drops will remain on the side of the enclosure for the rest of the day, but this will then evaporate the following day. This is achieved by light mist on the side of enclosure.
Feeding: You will need to offer food every couple of days to your jumping spider, DO NOT feed if your spider has closed itself in its thick web sack as it is getting ready to moult. At the beginning you will have to start with fruit flies, when the spidering is big enough make sure to switch up the food with larger prey; a good indication to when you need to start offering larger food is when you spider is attempting to catch another fly whilst the first fly is still in its mouth.
At some point in the development, the spider will stop seeing fruit flies as its food and will ignore it even when its hungry - the appropriate size of food for a Phidippus Jumping spider will be ¾ - 1.5 of the size of the spider.
Lighting: Lighting is the most important aspect of caring for a jumping spider, it is important to provide plenty of light during the day as they love bright light. Without correct lighting for your spider it will go off its food as they will spend their time in their web sack waiting for the conditions to improve. Setting up LED Lights over the spider enclosure with a 12hr on/off schedule is a good way to ensure your spider is getting enough light in the enclosure, or you can use the brightest part in your room.
1) Too high humidity: They like it dry, but they all need access to water
2) Prey left inside the enclosure: Never leave live prey inside a spider enclosure (unless you have a lot of jumping spider experience). Despite there being a few insects that are harmless to a spider, there is still a chance the spider will become stressed and go through a bad moult due to the buzzing flies, crickets and roaches left in the enclosure.
3) Setting enclosure on a heat mat or by the window: Heat mats do not provide a steady temperature and even using a thermostat and bright sunlight can cause temperatures of the enclosure to rise over 40°C; this will overheat your jumping spider. Jumping spiders prefer to be in temperatures between 26°C and 32°C; however they can do well in 21°C-25°C
(It’s better to keep it low than risking overheating the spiders)
4) Checking on a spider during its pre-moult: Please be patient with your jumping spider whilst its In the process of moulting, it can be very stressful for your spider hiding in its web sack for a week or two. Do not poke it to see If it is alive